. red tailed black cockatoo
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- An Australian Parrot
(Click on photo to enlarge)
Photo of cock bird.
- Scientific Name: Calyptorhynchus banksii
- Common Name/s: RED
TAILED BLACK COCKATOO, BANKSIAN COCKATOO.
- Sub Species in country / area of origin:
5
- Origin / Distribution: Multiple
parts of Australia and across the top of Australia.
- Habitat In Wild: Varied.
- Status In Wild: Northern
population is secure but other populations are reducing due to
habitat loss. They prefer eucalypt woodlands.
- Status In (Australian) Captivity:
Numbers are low.
- Age To Sexual Maturity: about 4
years
- Lifespan (estimate): approx.
25 or more
years. Could reach 50 years of age.
- Sexing: Monomorphic
/ Dimorphic
- Colour mutations: None
- Availability: Specialist
breeders. Check to ascertain which sub-species is being acquired.
- Temperament: ?
- Cost (Victoria) Per Pair: -
Normal colour (Approx.) $4000
- Description Of Adults: C. b.
banksii is the largest of the 5 subspecies.
- Length: Approx. 500 - 600 mm (or approx 20 - 24
inches)
- Colour ( "normal" colour ): Refer
photo above. Photo of cock bird.
- Weight: Approx 700 - 850 gms (or approx 25 - 30
ozs)
Calyptorhynchus banksii
graptogyne - the endangered south-eastern subspecies of the Red
tailed Black Cockatoo was the mascot of the 2006 Commonwealth Games held
in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. The mascot was known as Karak.
Known population is about 1000 birds.
Birds Australia quote from the Age newspaper (Melbourne) of 30 May 2006,
"The problem for the birds is that they are specialised seed eaters that
eat the fruit of only three trees; two kinds of stringybarks and the
buloke tree, which is itself endangered." The decline of the
buloke tree is caused in part by the drought.
Aviary
Notes:
Level Of Knowledge Required: Beginner / Intermediate / Advanced /
Specialist
Breeders Only.
Government Regulations & By-Laws:
Refer to " Government Laws " web page.
Housing Requirements: Refer to "
Housing Birds " web page for general
details on the housing of Cockatoos or read on for specific details for
this parrot.
An aviary of 8 metres long will allow
these birds to be able to get adequate exercise. The aviary should
be about 1.5 to 1.8 metres wide and about 2.4 metres high. Heavy
gauge wire is necessary, preferably weldmesh.
Suitable non-toxic leafy branches can be placed in the aviary for the birds to chew up.
This will entertain the birds, help minimize boredom and give the birds
some beak exercise. Natural branches can be used for perches. These
natural perches will be chewed by the birds and may need to be replaced
regularly.
Diet / Feeding: Refer to "
Feeding Birds " web page for general
details on the feeding of Cockatoos or read on for specific details for
this parrot.
Native seed diet include Acacia,
Banksia, Casuarina, Eucalypt, Hakea and the introduced Pine species as
well as the nuts and fruiting bodies. Branches, seeds and cones of
these trees and other suitable native plants should be offered to the
birds. This will provide them with hours of physical activity and
mental stimulation as well as a varied diet.
The aviary diet include a variety of
fruits and vegetables along with nuts, seeds, sprouted or soaked seeds,
leafy green vegetables and
greenfoods such as chickweed and dandelion. Many parrots will eat
insects such as grubs and mealworm larvae, pupa and mealworm beetles. Supplementary feeds,
calcium food additives
and mineral and vitamin supplements as directed by veterinary advice.
Commercial Parrot pellets can form part
of a balanced food intake.
The feed bowls should be fixed in place
or made unmovable. Loose bowls will often be upturned or played
with as a toy or play item.
Nesting: A basic overview only. Dimensions
are typical / average and can vary widely, influenced by the owner's
preferences and the birds preferences. Parent bird's preferences can
also be influenced by the size and type of nest-box / log in which the
bird was hatched and reared. If space allows, offering a choice of
sizes and types of logs or nest-boxes, and placed in various locations
within the aviary, can allow the parent birds to make their own choice.
Once a pair has chosen a specific nest-box/log and been successful in
it, offer that one to them each breeding season. Try and keep that one
for their exclusive use. Once a pair has chosen its log or nest-box,
the other ones can generally be removed. If the "spare" boxes are to be
removed and moved to another flight, ensure the log / nest-box is
cleaned to ensure the receptacle has the minimal contamination of mites,
parasites and pathogens.
A solid log is the preferred nest for
large cockatoos.
- Nesting months: Varies
depending upon where they are bred.
- Log / Nest-box:
- Length
/ depth 700 - 900 mm (or approx. 28 - 36 inches)
- Log internal
diameter approx. 350 - 400 mm. (or approx. 14 - 16
inches)
- Nest-box internal dimensions approx. 350 - 400
mm square (or approx. 14 - 16 inches square)
- Diameter of
entrance
hole approx. 200 - 300 mm (or approx. 8 - 12 inches)
- Inspection hole (square or round)
100 - 150 mm
(or approx 4 - 6 inches)
- A removable top / lid can be a
useful access point for inspections and for cleaning.
- Location and height
of log / nest-box = high in the covered part of the aviary but not
too close to the roof to be affected by heat from the roof in the
summer months.
- Angle of log or nest box = 45 degrees through to
vertical.
- Nesting log / nest-box material:
Decomposed non-toxic saw dust, wood shavings or other suitable
material/s. The hen will chew pieces off the inside of the log
to add to the nesting material on which she will lay the egg or
eggs.
- Who incubates the egg/s:
Hen
/ cock / both share.
Timber nest-boxes generally require a climbing structure attached inside
the box below the entrance hole. Both logs and nests need an entrance
hole/opening about 100 - 150mm (about 4 -6 inches) from the top. Many
species of parrots like the entrance hole to be just big enough to
squeeze through. Some parrot breeders do not place a "top" or lid on the
larger nest log or box and allow the birds to enter the nest via the top
opening.
More details on
parrot nestboxes/logs and a selection of
parrot nestbox/log photos
can be found on the "nests", "parrot nests"
and "parrot nestbox photos"
web pages. Click on "Up" then "Nests" then "parrot nests"
and "parrot nestbox photos" in
the navigation bars.
Breeding: Egg Colour
White. Clutch/s per year 1. Eggs per
nest 1 or 2.. Usually produce one young per clutch. Incubation
approx. 28 days. Fledge approx. 12 weeks.
Independent approx. many months and may be fed by a
parent till the parents start the next clutch the next year.
It is essential to correctly identify
the sub-species of each bird prior to breeding. Do not mix
sub-species.
These birds can become aggressive at
breeding season and may attack the keeper. Nest boxes are best
positioned so the nest inspection can be carried out from outside the
aviary. Nest inspection is best done when the adult birds are out
of the nest.
In the wild young birds may stay in
close proximity to the parent birds till the start of the next breeding
season learning the correct social skills and species specific
behaviour. Many skills or behaviour can be learnt by visual
observation.
If possible, the young birds should be
kept in the company of other young Red tailed black cockatoos, or near pairs
of adult birds, so they can learn the appropriate social, behavioural
and feeding skills for their species. Young birds that imprint
with their own species may be better, more reliable breeders when they
attain breeding age. Birds that imprint with their own species may
form stronger pair bonds with their mate at breeding time.
Properly imprinted and socialised birds
usually display less behavioural problems.
Some breeders allow the birds to rear the
clutch and are happy with one clutch of one bird per year.
Another practise is to remove eggs as they are
laid and to incubate the eggs and hand raise the young. Removing the eggs
as they are laid will usually stimulate the hen to lay more eggs. This is
a natural occurrence in the wild if eggs are taken by predators. If the
hen and cock bird's breeding cycle is not synchronised, the removal of the first
eggs and placing those eggs in an incubator minimizes the chances of the hen
sitting on infertile eggs.
Artificial incubation and hand
rearing or fostering will not be covered on this web site. It is
too complex and diverse in nature to be attempted here.
Health Issues: Refer to "Avian
Health Issues" web page for information and references.
- Worming and parasite control
and Quarantine requirements of new bird/s or sick bird/s are
considered to require veterinary advice and therefore not covered on
this web site. Refer "Avian Health Issues"
web page option.
- Avian medicine is advancing
at a rapid pace. Keep updating your knowledge and skills.
General
References: Refer to references listed on "Book References"
web page.
Specific
References:
- Australian Aviculture
- A/A Vol 56 No. 11 Nov 2002 Page 233-237 (Inc photo)
- A/A Vol 52 No. 6 Jun 1998 Page 143-144
- A/A Vol 48 No. 5 May 1994 Page 121-122
- A/A Vol 45 No. 4 Apr 1991 Page 102-104
- A/A Vol 39 No. 5 May 1985 Page 115-116
- A/A Vol 38 No. 12
Dec 1984 Page 283-289 (Inc photo)
- Australian Birdkeeper
- ABK Vol 18 Issue 11. Oct-Nov 2005 Page 669-673 (Corellas &
Cockatoos of inland Australia)
- ABK Vol 16 Issue 12 Dec-Jan 2004 Page 671-674
(Hand rearing).
- ABK Vol 16 Issue 8 Apr-May 2003 Page 468-469
- ABK Vol 13 Issue 3. Jun-July 2000 Page 148-149
- ABK Vol 13 Issue 1. Feb-Mar 2000 Page 7-9
- ABK Vol 12 Issue 11. Oct-Nov 1999 Page 534-535
- ABK Vol 12 Issue 9. Jun-July 1999 Page 423-425
- ABK Vol 11 Issue 3. Jun-July 1998 Page 112-116
- ABK Vol 10 Issue 9. Jun-July 1997 Page 438-439
- ABK Vol 7 Issue 6. Dec-Jan 1995 Page 271-276
- ABK Vol 6 Issue 12. Dec-Jan 1994 Page 603-605
- ABK Vol 6 Issue 12. Dec-Jan 1994 Page 614-615
- ABK Vol 2 Issue 11. Oct-Nov 1989 Page 443-444
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