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Note:
The details on this page are to be read and used in conjunction with the
information on the web pages as shown in the left hand side navigation bar.
The following is what is generally recommended but is subject to
change to suit the available space, available resources and local
environmental conditions. When in the design stage, thought should be
given to allow for possible current or future disabilities (e.g. broken
arm or age related restrictions) or if children may be required to help
with any of the duties.
One of the most popular suburban outdoor types is the open flight aviary with
a solid shelter at the rear of the unit. A walk way is generally
attached to and behind the shelter section. Access to the flight is
usually from the rear of the aviary.
Housing Requirements:
A basic overview only. There are no absolute rules and many
methods will work equally well. Refer to disclaimer below.
There is a huge range of shapes, sizes and designs of aviaries and
cages in use today. If you have a unit that works for you, that is
great and why change.
An aviary should allow the bird/s sufficient
space to: 1.. Fly, walk and exercise to maintain good physical and mental
health.
2.. Adequate room to perform and nuptial display and area to mate.
3.. Avoid other aggressive birds. 4.. Allow enough to cater for the young birds when
they fledge as well as the parent birds. 6.. Privacy retreat,
mainly for hens.
Birds can be housed in
a variety Sizes and Styles of cages and aviaries:
1..
Cages or cabinets. 2.. Suspended cages. 3.. Small to medium size aviaries.
4.. Habitat aviaries. 5.. Large parrot aviaries.
Some of the factors that influence the
housing of birds and their breeding results
are 1.. Size and shape of aviary or cage. 2.. Humidity.
3.. Lighting. 4.. Floor. 5.. Vibration within the aviary. 6..
Stocking rates.
7.. Species mix. 8.. Local climate, and many more.
Topics covered below - in order:
These topics are common to most or all
cages and aviaries.
Stress
The aim of designing a "home" for our birds is to produce a
stress free environment. Stress can be one of
the main reasons a pair will not successfully settle down to producing young. Stress is also one of the main causes of ill health or death of captive birds. All design features in an aviary or cage should minimize the potential stresses
in a bird's life.
Top of topics list
Climatic conditions
Aviculturalists in Australia house birds in a wide range of
climatic conditions ranging from the tropics, to desert areas, to cold areas
subject to snowfalls, high rainfall to areas subject to prolonged droughts.
Some areas can have very hot days but at night the temperature may drop to close
to freezing point. Almost every possible climatic condition can be found
in Australia. Successful breeders can be found in this vast diversity of
climatic conditions so if you are able to get access to people or read articles
that relate to your particular area, use those facts as a starting point.
During the summer months care must be taken to minimize the effects of
excessive heat, sun and drying winds.
Top of topics list
Aviary or cage orientation
In Australia the general orientation of the aviary is to face the
front (of the aviary) north or north-east. Providing there are no
buildings, large trees, etc in the way, the north or north east
orientation should provide good light levels within the flight and allow
the birds adequate access to direct sunlight to ensure proper calcium &
vitamin D uptake. If an aviary cannot be given a northerly aspect,
that does not rule out a successful aviary. An aviary is often
built to allow the owners to view the birds from the house or from a
preferred viewing point such as a patio. Often this results in an
aviary facing south. This only means that more care has to be
taken in its design and the husbandry aspects of the birds. To improve
the light level in a south facing aviary, the north facing rear wall can be made
of an opaque material. Alternatively, all the roof can be made of an opaque
material. These options will increase the
light levels in the sheltered portion of the aviary. Alternatively a removable
panel or "window" can be installed and opened on good weather days.
Top of topics list
Electrical and power
requirements
Don't underestimate the electrical power requirements of the
aviary or the associated birdrooms, quarantine or sick bird areas.
It is cheaper to allow for a few extra power points when building than
to add them after the building has been finished. Plan power
outlets for fridge, freezer, electronic scales, computers, printers,
vacuum cleaners, battery rechargers, power tools etc. Refer to "birdroom" and "equipment" web pages.
Top of topics list
The first question that should be asked is fairly simple
Will the
aviary, either now or in the future, house any parrots? If
the answer is yes, it will be better to plan,
budget for, and build an aviary suitable for the attack of parrot beaks.
A parrot aviary will usually require a galvanized steel frame and strong wire mesh.
Top of topics list
Finch requirements versus parrot
Finch requirements are very different to those
of parrots.
1. No finches will destroy a timber framed
aviary but a parrot may turn it into splinters within days. Metal
frames are required for parrots.
2. Parrots require heavy duty wire mesh or
weld mesh to prevent them chewing holes in the wire. Some large parrots need
heavy duty weld mesh or chain mesh.
3. Small finches require a smaller diameter
mesh hole size to prevent escapes of the adult and juvenile finches. Some
small finches can get through the standard wire cage fronts used on budgie
or canary cages.
4. Most finches are fairly non-destructive of
shrubs, trees and plants. Most parrots quickly destroy any vegetation
their beak can reach.
5. Vegetation and branches for most parrots is just beak
exercise (that is good therapy for parrots and should be provided on a
regular basis if possible).
Top of topics list
Materials
There are a lot of building materials now available through
the large hardware outlets that were usually only available through
trade outlets. The aviary frame can be made from timber, plastics,
metals or a combination of them.
The metals can be steel or aluminium. The steel can be painted,
galvanized, square, angle, channel or round.
The metals can be joined by welding, commercial metal joiners, plastic
joiners, self taping metal screws, rivets, bolts and clips.
Kits can be ordered and arrive in a "flat pack". Most kits
come in panels and are joined together. There are many suppliers
that will custom build these kits to your specifications. Delivery
and the assembly of these kits by the supplier can be negotiated.
One problem with the panels is the channel on the lower edge.
Seeds and other materials, including water, can accumulate in the
channel. A vacuum cleaner is often the best way of removing
material from the channel. Water can enter the aviary via these
channels.
The most common wall material used are sheet metal panels.
Colourbond can be used to enhance the aesthetics of the aviary.
Galvanized or painted wire mesh or weld mesh is required under the
panels on the external walls. This minimizes the risk of escapes
if the panels are damaged. The inner wire mesh layer may deter the
entry of unwanted visitors.
"Tec screws" or self tapping screws that have a raised square or
hex head are one of the security failings of modern aviaries. Many
aviaries have been robbed by people with battery operated drills.
The back metal sheets are the usual entry point. The screws are
easily and quietly removed. Additional non-removable fixing items
should be included at regular intervals, e.g. pop rivets or
one-way screws.
Top of topics list
Suspended cages
Suspended cages are becoming more widely used and can be researched
to determine if this is a valid choice for your site. Lorikeet and Lory
suspended cage size could be 1200mm long, 900mmwide and 1200mm
high. Cage floor about 1000mm above the room floor. Many larger parrots
can be housed in suspended cages. Size could be 2400mm or more long,
1200mm wide and 1200mm high. Some finches can be housed and bred in a
suspended cage. Refer to "Suspended Cages" web page as
shown in the left navigation bar.
Top of topics list
Indoor room
Another option is to have an indoor room with "cabinet" style
breeding cages. Indoor set-ups allow a greater degree of control over
the environmental factors and allows maximum control over pair selection
for breeding programs. Indoor bird rooms are good for people who
work non standard hours or have commitments that restrict them to non
standard hours. An indoor set up allows the person to modify the
hours the birds are asleep or awake. Lights can be put on timers
that gradually increase in intensity of light so they can be fed earlier
than outside birds, or equally kept awake a bit longer to allow the
birds to be cared for later than those outside.
Top of topics list
Aviary size
The traditional outdoor planted aviary is
aesthetically pleasing and great to house mixed species or a
colony. A good size for a mixed finch or Softbill colony aviary is
3 metres x 2 metres x 2.1 metres high. If only one or two pairs are
to be housed, a smaller aviary should suffice. Many finches can be
housed indoors in cages as small as those commonly used by budgie
and canary breeders. Suspended cages are becoming more popular and
may suit some species of finches and parrots. If the birds are successful at
raising a clutch of young, a second aviary will be required
to house the young birds after they have reached independence. If
the young are left in the same aviary as the parent birds there is a
strong chance the parent birds (especially the cock bird) will be
aggressive to the young birds. Aggression and associated stress can
be fatal to a young bird.
Top of topics list
Aviary security
Aviary security has to be considered
prior to the construction stage of the aviary. Birds can have a high monetary
value and stolen aviary birds are rarely recovered. Pet birds usually have a
strong emotional attachment value and almost impossible to replace. The harder
it is to break into an aviary, the less likely the thieves will hang around.
Incorporate security devices in the aviary that will not make the maintenance
tedious or disruptive to the enjoyment of the birds. As with houses, it is
virtually impossible to totally prevent a theft by a determined thief. A
Micro-chip in the larger birds is an option to confirm disputed ownership of
recovered birds.
Top of topics list
Safety door and safety walkways
The safety door, safety flight area, or safety walkways are areas
that minimize the potential escape of birds. The
inclusion of a safety door combine the use of two doors. Enter
the first door and close it behind yourself then open the interior
door moving inside with the food or other items and then close that
door as well. When leaving, the reverse is done with one
additional check. After closing the interior door make sure NO
birds, especially ground birds such as quail, are NOT in the safety
area with you PRIOR to opening the outer door. If used
correctly, this procedure minimizes the loss of birds through the
main door/s. If space allows, the inclusion of a safety door
or safety flight area should be built into all aviaries. The
inclusion of a safety flights or safety walkways also minimizes the
loss of birds through the main door/s. The safety area can be
as big or small as space allows. In small aviaries the area
may only be just big enough to fit one person plus the room needed
to carry the birds food or a carry box. In larger aviaries one
may make this area large enough to allow the safe movement of a food
trolley or wheelbarrow. The older aviaries had the walkway at
the front of the flights but the recent trend is to put the walkway
to the rear of the flights. The old style walkway was
generally unroofed and subject to unfavourable weather conditions
such as rain and strong winds. The change to having the
walkway behind the flights, the enclosed area allows the day to day
activities and the moving of birds to be done in all weather
conditions. The safety walkways at the rear of the aviaries
that are made of solid material such as corrugated steel or solid
opaque material will also double as storage areas and if birds do
escape into this area they tend to land quickly. In the wired
front walkways the escaped bird/s tend to fly madly often hitting
the wire at break-neck speed with fatal results or a severe injury.
Top of topics list
Spring loaded doors
May help minimize escapes. May hinder moving larger items into
or out of the aviary.
Top of topics list
Steel
and timber frame
If the aviary is only used for
finches, a timber frame is acceptable. If there is a chance that
parrots will, now or in the future, be housed in the aviary then a
steel frame would be preferable. As parrots like to chew on timber,
it is advisable to build the frame and doors out of steel. Steel
frames are easier to clean and generally provide less places for
mites and other insects to hide.
Top of topics list
Wire netting or mesh
Ensure the wire netting or mesh is
the best you can buy and is very strong. Remember it has to be up
for a long time and in all weather conditions and in the future you
may want to buy bigger and stronger birds. It also has to keep
un-welcome animals out (cats, dogs, possums, snakes, rats & mice etc
) as well as un-invited people. Within reason, the stronger the
better. Mouse proof wire (about 6.5mm) is more expensive to install
initially but can pay its way, when installed correctly, very
quickly. Keeping vermin out is better than trying to kill or catch
the little pests once they get inside. The wire or mesh can be
painted black (with non-toxic paint) to make it easier to see the
birds from outside the aviary.
Rolls or panels of mesh come in a variety of widths so it is easier to cover a
wall without too much trimming e.g. 900mm plus 1200mm gives the standard aviary
wall height of 2100mm.
The main difference between a parrot and finch aviary is the wire. Finches
do not need as heavy a gauge wire mesh as parrots. The wire aperture (hole
size) has to be less for the finches. Some small fledglings and baby quail
can get partially through (usually the head) or fully through 13mm (half inch)
wire mesh.
The surface coating of wire mesh used to be available only as galvanized.
There are now a wider variety including, painted, powder coated, plastic coated.
In bygone days most wire was the half inch "chicken wire". Most aviaries
now use square mesh. The most popular being 12mm x 12mm (half inch
square). The gauge of the wire influences its cost. The heavier the
gauge the more expensive it is.
The tighter the wire is attached, the less "give" the wire will have, especially
in the winter. Tight wire may look better but if a startled or fledgling
bird flies into it the bird may sustain more injuries hitting tight wire than
looser wire mesh.
Cyclone makes Aviary weldmesh in gauges up to 2.5mm.
Top of topics list
Shelter section
The shelter section usually has a solid back wall and side
walls and a solid roof which, if conditions require, can be
insulated. This is often the area where nests or nest boxes are
placed or built and the various feeds are located.
Top of topics list
Walk-way
A walk way is generally attached to and behind
the shelter section. Access to the flight is from the rear of the
shelter. The walk way should have a concrete floor and a fully
covered roof and solid walls. This will allow all feeding and
husbandry duties to be carried out even in the most adverse
conditions. Older style aviaries usually have the walk way in
the front of the aviaries.
Top of topics list
Aviary and Walkway Ventilation
Modern outdoor finch aviaries are
becoming more enclosed and hot spots can occur especially at the
back of the aviary in summer. If you live in an area that can
experience very hot summer days or heat wave conditions a vibration
free, quiet extractor fan, connected to a thermostat, and shielded
by a suitable stainless steel mesh guard, installed in the back
wall and ducted to the outside of the aviary complex may be worth
considering. When on "manual override", the extractor fan can
provide a gentle flow of air from the aviary. It can remove
airborne dust while cleaning the flight.
As most walkways are fully enclosed with solid walls, the same
concept can be applied to the walkway behind the flights.
Install a vibration free, quiet extractor fan/s connected to a
thermostat and shielded by a suitable stainless steel mesh guard,
installed to a suitable exterior wall of the walk way. This will
remove excess heat especially in summer and provide a much better
work environment and minimize built up heat entering an already hot
aviary flight. When on "manual override", the extractor fan/s can
also quickly remove dust and excess humidity if required.
The same concept can apply in winter on cold damp mornings. If
the interior of the aviary is cold and damp and outside is drier and
warmer why not just turn the extractor fan/s on and suck out the
colder damper air.
Top of topics list
Roofing
Corrugated clear or opaque materials are
strong, durable and popular. This material goes over the wire and
does not replace the wire.
The rear third of the roof is often corrugated steel. The corrugated steel
can provide a darkened part that some species prefer when they are nesting.
The shaded/darkened area can give the birds the feeling of privacy. The
remainder of the roof can be transparent or opaque. The modern roofing
materials are strong and light and easily installed. With that said, it is
possible to have one third of the roof open during the warmer months and then
replace the material for the winter months.
Some "roof coverage" options are:
1.. Rear portion of the roof area covered. One third of the roof or a
minimum of about1500mm wide, the shelter section.
2.. Two thirds covered leaving the front part open to allow the birds access to
direct sunlight and rain showers.
3.. Fully roofed aviary.
4.. Front and rear covered with a gap in the middle. Birds are protected
at both ends of the aviary but the middle section allows rain and sun to enter
the aviary.
Top of topics list
Area of roof covered: Two basic options.
1. The whole
roof could be covered - a fully covered roof generally gives best
results for Australian and foreign finches.
2. Have the shelter fully covered
and half of the rest of the roof covered.
In the southern states
most outdoor finch aviaries have a fully covered roof. As a
general statement - the bigger the area of roof covered, the less chances of
parasites entering the aviary from wild birds. A greater roof coverage
also minimizes the risk of the aviary birds being harassed by predatory wild
birds such as hawks. A fully roofed aviary will minimize the chances of
birds remaining in an uncovered part of the aviary during storms and being
injured by hail stones or intense rain storms. Birds that stay in unroofed areas
of the aviary can be saturated and remain wet and cold for a long period of
time. This can be detrimental to the health and wellbeing of young or breeding
birds. The full coverage of the roof can minimize the risk of the "wind chill
factor" further cooling an already wet bird. A fully covered roof minimizes the
risk of rain contaminating the birds foods.
Top of topics list
Winter wind and rain protection
In the southern states,
many aviaries have removable panels which can be placed on the front
wall of the aviary to fully or partially exclude the cold winds and
heavy rains. Clear or opaque corrugated roofing material is often
the material of choice. Clear flat acrylic sheet (or similar
products) will allow the birds to be seen easily while providing
protection.
Top of topics list
Floor
Concrete floor with a sand cover, although
expensive initially, is often the best option, and easier to keep
clean. Soil floors are cheap initially but require a lot of
maintenance to keep clean, dry and free from parasites or parasite
eggs. Planted aviaries generally require a soil floor. The floor
is often an easy entry point for vermin such as snakes, rats and
mice. Appropriate measures have to be built into the floor and wall
foundations to ensure no pests can enter. Although rare, a parrot
may dig into a soil floor and escape or end up in another flight.
Refer to "habitat aviary" for information on planted aviary floors.
Top of topics list
Perches
One of the most over looked items in an
aviary. In nature, trees and branches come in all shapes and
diameters so give the birds in our cages and aviaries the same
choice. Some perches can be horizontal in the roosting/sleeping
spot. Other branches / perches can be placed at other angles to
mimic nature. Varying diameter of perches gives the bird's feet and
legs good exercise. Ensure perches are not placed over water or
feed receptacles. Replace perches as required. NOTE - Do not put
perches in places people are likely to walk into, especially at head
or face level !!
SUMMER TIME: the perches can be lowered in the summer in the covered part of the
aviary so the birds do not get effected by heat radiating from the roof.
When designing the perch attachments, allow for alternative height levels.
Top of topics list
Nests attached to an external wall or a
metal wall
Nests attached to an external wall or a
metal wall
in the cooler months may be colder than nests further away
from the cold surface. External aviary walls and metal walls can
get very cold very fast at night and drain valuable heat from a nest.
Young finches or parrots can die if the nest gets cold and stays cold especially
at night. Moving a nest about 100 - 150 mm (4 - 6 inches) away
from a potentially cold surface will minimize this kind of heat loss.
To show how cold a wall can make a nest, hang a maximum / minimum recording
thermometer on the metal wall for a few nights then for the next few nights hang
it about 100 - 150 mm away from the wall then compare the results. The
loss or nest heat is
less critical in the summer months but the heat drain caused in the cooler
months may delay the hatching and development of the young or in a worst case
the death of one or all of that clutch.
In the winter months the "wind
chill factor" may further reduce the metal temperature
and aggravate the heat loss even further.
The same heat loss principle can apply to the
parrot family of birds.
In the hot summer months the heat transfer along
metal aviary or cage frames or roof may influence the temperature of
a nest. Heat can move along metals exposed to direct sun and,
if a nest is placed in contact with the metal frame or roof, the
nest temperature may increase to a temperature that may compromise
the health or survival of the adults, young or eggs.
If it is not
practical to move the nest or log away from a potentially hot or cold wall, a
piece of solid "parrot proof" insulation can be placed between the nest or log
and the metal surface to minimize the potential heat loss or heat gain.
Top of topics list
Lighting levels and qualities
For birds housed outdoors in a north facing aspect with a clear or opaque roof
material should receive adequate levels of light into the aviary or cage. For
convenience or to control some environmental conditions, indoor controlled
environment rooms are built. The birds are at the mercy of the owner instead of
the natural weather conditions. Indoor birdrooms give the opportunity to modify
the lighting duration, lighting colour and intensity. It is easy to change or
control the duration and intensity of indoor rooms but is much harder to provide
the optimal colour or wave length of light.
Herpetologists (reptile breeders - e.g.
lizards, snakes, frogs) have a long history of using artificial lighting for
their reptiles. Most reptile breeders keep the animals indoors in cages and have
developed good reliable methods, practises and equipment to cater for the needs
of the varying species of reptiles and amphibians. The hydroponics industry has
also developed a wide range of items that can be useful to the aviculturalist.
An electrical will be necessary to oversee and install most of the wiring etc.
It has taken the bird people a
while to catch up but all the necessary equipment is now available. Many
companies supply high quality lights that provide a "full
spectrum" light.
One recently advertised brand is "Arcadia". The advertising leaflet
shows pictures of the globes and the globe holders. Make local enquiries as to
availability and suitability of these items.
The effects of providing the incorrect light levels and incorrect lighting
spectrums can be found in good quality avian veterinary books and magazines.
Care must be exercised with the use of
full spectrum lights in an enclosed room. These lights give off a
quantity of UV light. Prolonged exposure to these lights may be
detrimental to some people. Laboratory "Laminar flow cabinets" have a
clear plastic or glass that does not allow the transmission of UV light.
Plastics or similar clear materials can be placed on the front of the cage to
minimize the dispersal of the UV in the bird room. These UV producing lights may
degrade plastics and make the plastics and similar items brittle and subject to
early breakage.
Reference:
A/A Vol 57 No. 11 Nov 2003 Page 252-255 (Light and its effects on birds by Dr.
S. Gelis)
Top of topics list
Bird Toys or play gyms
Bird toys and bird play gyms can minimize boredom and give a variety of exercise activities. A wide range of bird toys and "bird gyms" can be seen at good retail
bird dealers and pet shops. Bird toys and "bird gyms" can be placed in an outdoor aviary not just
indoor cages. Most parrots including Conures, macaws & lorikeets love to play with toys and it
gives them a reason to be active and entertain themselves. Along with
the physical activity, it also gives them some mental exercise and mental
stimulation i.e. environmental enrichment. Refer to "Aviary
furniture" web page as shown in the left hand navigation bar.
Top of topics list
Wire mesh floor in cages - a "suspended cage" wire floor
Many cages now come
with a "suspended cage" wire floor. This makes the cleaning of cages
very easy and removes the requirement of having to enter the cage. The wire
floor minimizes the birds contact with stale foods and the droppings. A tray is
under the "wire floor" and this is removed, cleaned and replaced. This system
minimizes the chances of a bird escaping while the cage is being cleaned. The
wire floor can be cleaned as required. A sheet of newspaper in the tray makes
cleaning quick and easy. More information available on the "suspended
cages" web page as shown in the left hand navigation bar.
Top of topics list
Vibration in nests and perches - fight and
flight reflex - nervous birds such as Gang Gangs - details to follow.
Top of topics list
Birds need a defined "bed time"
In the wild most birds go to roost at dusk and wake up
at dawn. The timing of dusk and dawn changes by only a few minutes each day and
the slow change is in accordance with the seasons. Birds are creatures of habit
and like a predictable sleep time duration.
In a captive situation the keeper
determines the sleep time and duration of the birds.
Place an aviary in a position that has minimal intrusion from lights and loud
sounds especially at night. Birds are no different than people or other animals
and prefer a regular schedule for sleep. Interruptions from cats, dogs, rodents,
predatory birds etc can be detrimental to the optimal health of birds and may
cause the night-time abandonment of a nest.
A good night sleep for the bird/s can
help minimize the other stresses in a bird's daily life.
This applies equally to
pet or companion birds.
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Ease of cleaning
All equipment, fittings and fixtures that will be subject to contamination by
the birds should be chosen with the view of how easily the items can be cleaned.
It is not a good purchase if you have to spend countless hours cleaning
intricate or fragile items. If an item is easy to clean, the item is likely to
be cleaned on a regular basis. Regularly cleaned items can be inspected for
wear, corrosion, or damage at the same time.
Top of topics list
Inspection holes in nest boxes
My first timber nest boxes had the inspection door or hole
about 100 - 150 mm (4 - 6 inches) above the level of the nest material. This
caused a lot of problems as soon as the door was opened to inspect the contents
of the box. A human hand or face would appear between the sitting bird and its
only escape exit near the top of the nest box. Panic would often grip the
sitting bird and in its defence mode it would start flapping its wings and
generally thrashing around in the nest. A potential deadly action scene for eggs
and baby birds.
When the door opening was lowered to
slightly above the nest material (about 20 - 25mm or almost 1 inch) the birds reacted differently. If the
door was opened and the bird was at the same height as the opening,
it was able to leave the nest without going past the human onlooker. The bird
has more confidence to quietly leave and not panic. This is not always the case
as some birds will refuse to leave no matter how polite and caring the owner is.
The bird will just look sideways at you and the small height difference between
the top of the nest material and the lowset part of the opening should prevent
any eggs or young birds accidentally falling out when the door is opened.
Care should always be exercised whenever
the nest box inspection door is opened.
Top of topics list
Transporting Birds
Two types of boxes can be made or purchased. One for regular personal
transporting of birds and the other for transporting birds by couriers
and transport companies. The first, a personal carry box that stays in
your care, will require a door that can be opened and closed easily but
securely. The transporting of birds that leave your care will require a
"box" that is difficult to open in-transit and hence minimize the loss
of birds. A good reference to read is the Syd Smith article in the ABK
publication Vol.
13 - issue 6 Pages 326 - 332.
Top of topics list
Socializing parrots - Value of "Pets" v's Breeder Birds
Many articles have been written on the benefits and
drawbacks of hand rearing of birds. Does the handrearing of mainly parrots
change the behaviours of the birds when they become adults and want to breed? A
bird that has been hand-raised for sale as a pet or companion bird will not need
to learn the social skills to maintain a successful and productive life with
others of its species. The pet bird only has to form a good relationship with
the new owner and family. As long as the bird thinks it is one of its new human
family it will be thought of as a good bird.
If a hand raised bird is isolated from the
day to day learning of a parent or both parent birds, it may not learn the
normal social skills that their species has refined over the centuries. Most
social and developmental skills and attributes were developed to benefit the
flock and maximize the chances of sufficient birds reaching maturity and
breeding enough birds to maintain the flock numbers. Even the birds that have
reached maturity but do not produce young have a benefit to the flock. The ones
that have no young may be used to protect or feed the fledglings of other more
successful pairs. The birds not in a log breeding will often raise an alarm
screech that will warn a bird deep within a tree trunk of impending danger. Some
species such as the wrens, magpies and kookaburras will allow several
generations as well as others within their group to assist with the care and
rearing of fledglings. Each level of interaction should allow the young
birds to learn what is expected of them from their peers and expected to then
pass those traits on to their young.
In the wild, many young birds will be close
enough to adult birds at breeding time to observe the species specific
courting and mating "rules" and incorporate those behaviours into their
own.
The removal of birds from the nest for hand
rearing breaks the cycle of handing down the species specific social and
developmental skills and knowledge. A bird hand reared with out the guidance of
its own species may not realise there are boundaries of tolerance and become
very dominant and self assured. After-all when it is on its own being hand
raised, every time it squawks it usually bets everything it wants. Food and some
one turning up to entertain it. Do we ever deny a hand raised bird any of its
demands or modify any of its self developed social actions?
When the hand reared bird grows up and has it
chance to develop a breeding pair bond, will it instinctively know how to treat
the potential new partner? Some hand reared birds tend to treat others
aggressively when they become adults. Some fit in very well. Years ago it was
common practice to hand rear birds in small groups in a nest like container. Now
it is usual practice to place each young in a container of its own. No body
contact with and other young. No social contact with any other birds. Many hand
reared birds can become so lazy they do not even have to learn to swallow a
mouthful of food. Just open the beak and someone will squirts a syringe of food
directly into its crop!
With that said, it can be of interest to
follow the social and developmental skills of hand reared birds and
compare it with those birds that are parent reared birds. If they loose
the instinctive natural traits, what will replace these traits and how
do we learn to identify the new traits and how do we teach the other
aviculturalists / bird keepers to recognise the new traits?
All hand reared birds have the potential
to grow up as a "dominant" bird, where as in a parent reared nest one
young bird will assume a
dominant position and the others will generally accept a less assertive
role within the group. How does the aviary situation adapt to lots of
dominant personalities in the same place at the same time?
Is the dominance aggression counter
productive and interfere with the true breeding potential of their
species?
Are the
potentially new behaviour traits beneficial to the survival of that
particular species?
Can we modify a bad behaviour, such as
dominance and excessive aggression in adult hand reared birds?
If we can modify bad adult behaviour in an
aviary environment - how does one do that?
Top of topics list
Grasses, creepers and shrubs- How to support clumps of grasses and plants
Tall grasses, including bamboo, can make an ideal nest site for birds such as finches and
softbills. One problem is how to make the grasses in an aviary situation stay as
a stable structure. One solution is to place a wire or plastic mesh around the tall grass.
Most hardware outlets now stock a wide range of plastic, powder coated, and
galvanised metal meshes. If a mesh is chosen with openings of about 100 - 150mm (4
- 6
inches), the material can be made into a round, oval or square "tube" and placed
around the grass/s. The plants will grow to fill the structure. The support the
wire gives will allow the birds to build a stable nest structure and raise a
clutch. The mesh support will minimize the collapse of the grasses from the
effects of wind, rain, or other birds.
The tube can made to what ever height
you deem suitable for a particular species of bird. Short mesh tube for
low nesting birds and tall tube for higher nesters.
If the structure gets a bit top heavy or
looks like it will bend or topple over, just hammer in a metal "star
post" or solid wooden stake beside the mesh structure and tie the two
together. Check prior to disturbing the plant material for breeding or
nesting birds.
Creepers or climbing plants can be
trained in these tubes and grown to what ever height you deem
necessary. The creepers and climbers may have to be trimmed to maintain
the required shape or to maintain optimal foliage density. Trimming with
shears or hedge clippers can be dangerous to small birds if you are not
careful. The use of secateurs is usually slower but minimizes the risk
of injuries or decapitation of birds.
Top of topics list
Humidity levels
In the wild a nest is subject to constant air movement from the wind. In an
aviary we have solid side walls, rear wall, and a fully covered roof. The modern
aviary has almost totally removed the air movement from the rear portion of the
aviary. The nests are often placed in a spot at the back of the aviary with
little or no air movement. The minimal air flow can reduce the removal of humid
air this part of the aviary. One of the results of slow or no air movement is
the build up of moisture within the breeding or roosting nest. Nests that fail
to dry out can be detrimental to the development of the eggs, young or parent
bird.
Top of topics list
Temperature levels
The same principle as outlined in the "humidity levels" paragraph above applies
to the aspect of aviary and nest temperatures. In the summer, heat builds
up under the rear roofed section, the lack of air flow can be
detrimental to the nesting or roosting birds. Equally in winter, the
overnight cold will reduce the aviary temperature and that of the nest.
The lack of air movement may delay the warming of the rear of the aviary
and nest. The lack of warmth may reduce the growth rate of the young, delay
the development of the egg or make the parent bird lethargic.
Top of topics list
Nests to be under the covered section of the aviary
Birds that make a poor nest or
birds from dry environments may benefit from having a fully covered
roof. In the tropics a bird may make a nest that will be wet from rains
but have it dry out fairly quickly from the tropical heat and wind. The same nest
made by the same species, made in a cooler environment and subject to
the same amount of rain, in an aviary, may not dry out, leaving the hen, the eggs, or
young in a wet nest for an unacceptably long time. A nest that does not
dry out quickly may result in the loss or abandonment of that of that
clutch. A wet nest that does not fully dry out may become mouldy or
breed other harmful pathogens and become a health risk to other birds in
the aviary. This is especially applicable to those birds that have poor
hygiene habits and have messy droppings encrusted nests.
Top of topics list
Specific References
-
Australian
Aviculture
- A/A Vol 60 No. 7 Jul 2006 Page 143 (Sick house syndrome)
- A/A Vol 60 No. 6 Jun 2006 Page 134 (Gum trees in your aviary).
- A/A Vol 60 No. 4 Apr 2006 Page 69-71 (Advantages & disadvantages
of Bird keeping in hot climates)
- A/A Vol 59 No. 11 Nov 2005 Page 246-247 (Maintain those plants).
- A/A Vol 59 No. 9 Sept 2005 Page
189 - 190 (Aviary security).
- A/A Vol 58 No. 7
Jul 2004 Page 154-155 (Stress perches and stress nestboxes -
M. Fidler)****
- A/A Vol 33 No. 4 Apr 1979 Page 58-60
- A/A Vol 14 No 3 Mar 1960 Page 42-46.
- A/A Vol 13 No 12 Dec 1959 Page 174-175.
- Australian Birdkeeper
- ABK Vol 18 Issue 12. Dec-Jan 2006 Page 746-748 (Some facts
about avian influenza-Dr. Bob Doneley BVSc)
- ABK Vol 18 Issue 12. Dec-Jan 2006 Page 741-745 (The social
lives of wild parrots)
- ABK Vol 18 Issue 12. Dec-Jan 2006 Page 733-737 (Enrichment
for juvenile parrots)
- ABK Vol 18 Issue 11. Oct-Nov 2005 Page 665-668 (Beaks for every
purpose - R. Low)
- ABK Vol 18 Issue 9. Jun-Jul 2005 Page 538-543 (Environmental
enrichment).
- ABK Vol 17 Issue 2. Apr-May 2004 Page 74-76
(Full spectrum lighting)
- ABK Vol 17 Issue 1. Feb-Mar 2004 Page 22-27 (Mixing species - M.
Pollard).
- ABK Vol 16 Issue 12. Dec-Jan 2004 Page 712-714 ( Cage
environments - Dr. B. Doneley).
- ABK Vol 16 Issue 9. Jun-Jul 2003 Page
518-520.
- ABK Vol 16 Issue 9. Jun-Jul 2003 Page
490-494.
- ABK Vol 16 Issue 9. Jun-Jul 2003 Page
521 (Arcadia Bird Lamps).
- ABK Vol 14 Issue 9. Jun-Jul 2001 Page 487-491
(Selecting a pet bird).
- ABK Vol 14 Issue 8. Apr-May 2001 Page 458-459
(Eco-mesh at Dreamworld).
- ABK Vol 13 Issue 6. (R. Low)
Top of topics list
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